They will check your floor joists before deciding on a plan of installation. Use an uncoupling membrane - This is a piece of material installed between the subfloor and the tile to help the tile move independently from the subfloor removing the pressure from the tile.
Schluter's Ditra is one of the best examples of this flooring. Crossville Wholesale Carpet stocks Ditra and we cut by the foot for your project.
Click here to learn more about Ditra or watch a short video. Select a grout with an anti-crack guarantee - Not all grouts are created equal.
The more expensive grouts on the market offer anti-crack guarantees. The base materials and additives allow them additional flex. When pressure comes from the tile, they have some give, preventing the cracks from occurring. This is not a solution if your subfloor has extreme deflection.
One brand we like is the TruColor by Bostik. This grout also offers antimicrobial additives to lessen the possibility of mildew.
If you purchase grout, ask about the need for caulk - Caulk is necessary in showers and areas larger than 20' of tile.
It is recommended on backsplashes and the perimeter of your room. This means the perimeter of all rooms. Grout should never be installed against the wall, under your baseboard. This is an area which requires caulk or no material. The Tile Council of North America has many recommendations for installing tile. Are all of them necessary? The answer is no. They are simply recommendations.
If your cracks are caused by shifting surfaces, a line of caulk may survive where grout failed. Silicone caulk sets quickly and can be difficult to work with.
Not all grout problems are quick fixes. If cracking is widespread, too severe, or caused by major underlying installation problems, you should have the situation assessed by a professional. You may be able to get by with regrouting only, a days-long process that involves removing all existing grout, reinstalling new grout, allowing it to cure, and finishing up with sealant.
If there are problems beneath the tile though, the job will never be done right until you rip the tile out and start over. And a quick call to your local Benjamin Franklin is an important step toward making those dreams a reality. Contact us online or call us today at ! To narrow it down I need to know what your tile is actually bonded to or over.
Hi, had bathroom redone about 7 yrs ago. After first year tile start to move and grout cracked in high traffic area. Basically in front of the sinks. I had the contractor come back and he said it must be MY subfloor that was causing the problem even though he was the contractor that had it installed.
I argued the fact that it should have been fixed before floor laid but I got nowhere and decided to live with it until now. I got my hammer and siding bar and started uprooting tiles.
The ones that were already loose came up easy. Ones closer to walls and tub took a little more effort to remove. From reading other posts and comments I was thinking maybe the mortar was too dry before they placed tiles or maybe it really is the subfloor? I still need to remove the mortar or whatever that white stuff is to see what that is on top of. The number one cause of movement like that is actually inadequate prep.
It may very well be YOUR subfloor, but the thing about that is it was HIS job to prepare your subfloor for a successful tile installation. Hi, looking for some insight.
We have a newly installed kitchen tile floor which has had issues with cracks in the grout since installation in July. We have tried different grout, reinstalled tiles but are still having issues. The current theory from our contractor is that the tiles are moving from The subfloor. We are desperately trying not too pull out the whole kitchen to replace the subfloor.
Our contractor had recommended ceramic tile grout as this will allow for some flexibility. Is this a thing? Will this last? Elissa, in we had the same problem. New kitchen, new kitchen floor, grout cracking all over. Our problem, which might not be yours, was that none of the tiles actually adhered to the mortar.
Eventually we decided to remove all the tiles and the mortar and redo almost everything. The cabinets were custom and the counters were stone and it was all too much trouble to take it all out, especially because no one has insurance against this sort of mistake. If they had left the water on and damaged everything, it might have been covered. So anyway, they removed the toe kicks from the cabinets and then pulled up all the tile, breaking some, but it was so loose that a lot actually slid out from underneath the cabinets.
We had electric heat, and they had to chop that up and remove the mortar. The subfloor was fine, but they relaid concrete board down and then put all the tile back down. It is god-awful ugly under the cabinets and appliances, but you would never know from looking at it now. It is more expensive too. Improper mortar mixing, no backbutter, an excess of kiln-release on the back of the tile the white streaks or, most commonly, the mortar allowed to flash over before the tile was installed.
This will hinder bond to the tile. It sounds like it is an issue with the substrate. Do you know how it was installed? Like what the tile substrate actually is — what he bonded the tile to? We have tile in our bathroom that was installed 2 years ago. It was a full bathroom reno and there is radiant heat under the tile on the floor. The grout is crumbling around the tiles and some tiles make a popping sounds when stepped on clearly moving. Installer insists everything was done correctly but the image I have from before I left for work the day they did tile was that i believe plywood on the floor.
Unless 1 man is able to do everything else with flooring im thinking they installed on top of plywood. It was 1 guy doing all the tile. Now they are suggesting regrouping with silicone grout….. Do you have a heater vent or something in the floor that you can pull up and see if they did, indeed, install the tile directly to plywood? If they did, the only viable solution is tearing it out and starting over with a correct substrate. And yes — the installer is responsible for that, although the ability to recoup that cost will depend upon your local contractor laws.
You gotta like my page. Latest Twitter Jackassery. Why is my Floor Grout Cracking? The most likely reasons your tile is moving: Your tile does not have proper thinset coverage The most common reason I run into is improper coverage. Your subfloor is moving If you have a wooden subfloor and your tile is directly installed to it — go pick out new tile. Your backerboard was improperly installed If you have Hardiebacker, Durock, or any other type of cementious backerboard beneath your tile it should have been installed in the proper manner.
Other reasons your tile is moving You do not have expansion space around the perimeter of your tiled room. Or your pogo stick. Previous Comments. Thanks- Pete. Hi Pete, My guess would be the bond between the thinset and the backer. Hi Bronwen, There is incomplete or incorrect support somewhere under your tile.
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