As its name suggests, citric acid is made from citrus fruit extracts. Citric acid makes a good serum or toner used before applying a moisturizer.
It may even help work with sunscreen to provide maximum UV protection. However, you might find it makes other acids more effective. Mandelic acid contains larger molecules derived from almond extracts.
It can be combined with other AHAs to increase exfoliation. Used alone, the acid may improve texture and pore size.
BHAs are also designed for daily use, but you may need to apply a few times per week at first until your skin gets accustomed to them. This will help prevent further sun damage. Salicylic acid is the most common BHA. Concentrations can range between 0. This may be due to increased collagen production, which can make both the dermis and epidermis visibly plumper. These are both exfoliators, so using both can cause dryness and irritation. You can alternate products by using one type in the morning and the other during your nighttime routine.
Another strategy is to use these acids on certain parts of your face only. However, each ingredient can be used to achieve different skin care goals. A BHA may better suited if you want to calm down inflammation and get rid of acne. They can answer any questions you have and recommend specific ingredients or products to try. Face acids are the key to clear, youthful skin — but how do you know which one to use?
Take our skin type quiz and learn how to build the best routine for healthy skin. Find out what works for acne, scars, and more. It's about time we look as young as we feel. Here's a simple anti-aging routine, complete with product and ingredient recommendations.
AHAs, Peeling, and UV Irradiation A variety of acids can stimulate skin cell renewal, have the potential to irritate the skin, and can provide long-term cosmetic benefits such as improvements in skin firmness and elasticity and the reduction of lines and wrinkles. Figure 3. Figure 4. Future Prospects Currently, a considerable volume of research and noteworthy literature on the photoprotective and anti-inflammatory effects of AHAs is available. Conclusions UVB radiation from the sun first encounters the uppermost epidermal keratinocytes and plays a more active role in regulating several crucial biological responses in skin cells, such as ROS accumulation, apoptosis, DNA fragmentation, and inflammation.
Author Contributions Sheau-Chung Tang and Jen-Hung Yang both conceived, designed and performed the experiments, analyzed the data and wrote the paper. Conflicts of Interest The founding sponsors had no role in the design of the study; in the collection, analyses, or interpretation of data; in the writing of the manuscript, and in the decision to publish the results.
References 1. Andersen F. Final report on the safety assessment of glycolic acid, ammonium, calcium, potassium, and sodium glycolates, methyl, ethyl, propyl, and butyl glylates, and lactic acid, ammonium, calcium, potassium, sodium, and TEA-lactates, methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, and butyl lactates, and lauryl, myristyl, and cetyllactates. Moy L. Glycolic acid peels for the treatment of wrinkles and photoaging. Sharad J. Glycolic acid peel therapy—A current review.
Ditre C. Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on photoaged skin: A pilot clinical, histologic, and ultrastructural study. Morreale M. Synergistic effect of glycolic acid on the antioxidant activity of alpha-tocopherol and melatonin in lipid bilayers and in human skin homogenates.
Kaidbey K. Topical glycolic acid enhances photodamage by ultraviolet light. Yang J. Effects of glycolic acid on the induction of apoptosis via caspase-3 activation in human leukemia cell line HL Food Chem. Lai W. Synergistic phototoxic effects of glycolic acid in a human keratinocyte cell line HaCaT J. Tang S. DNA Cell Biol. Hung S. Gallic acid induces apoptosis in A S2 human melanoma cells through caspase-dependent and -independent pathways. Gallic acid inhibits the migration and invasion of A S2 human melanoma cells through the inhibition of matrix metalloproteinase-2 and Ras.
Melanoma Res. Ying T. Citric acid induces cell-cycle arrest and apoptosis of human immortalized keratinocyte cell line HaCaT via caspase- and mitochondrial-dependent signaling pathways. Anticancer Res. Hsiao Y. Triggering apoptotic death of human epidermal keratinocytes by malic Acid: Involvement of endoplasmic reticulum stress- and mitochondria-dependent signaling pathways. Antiproliferative effects of lactic acid via the induction of apoptosis and cell cycle arrest in a human keratinocyte cell line HaCaT J.
Parker E. Rapid Commun. Mass Spectrom. Van Scott E. Hyperkeratinization, corneocyte cohesion, and alpha hydroxy acids. Gupta R. Chemical peeling—Evaluation of glycolic acid in varying concentrations and time intervals. Indian J. De Gruijl F. UV-induced DNA damage, repair, mutations and oncogenic pathways in skin cancer.
B Biol. Decker R. Nature and regulation of energy metabolism in the epidermis. Falchi M. Comparison of cardioprotective abilities between the flesh and skin of grapes. Food Chem. Fiume M. S2 S—46S. Yamamoto Y. Effects of alpha-hydroxy acids on the human skin of Japanese subjects: The rationale for chemical peeling. Alpha-hydroxyacids and carboxylic acids.
Eberle J. Apoptosis pathways as promising targets for skin cancer therapy. S3 — Sousa L. Boukamp P. Normal keratinization in a spontaneously immortalized aneuploid human keratinocyte cell line. Cell Biol. Wilson G. Human Keratinocyte Cell Lines; pp. Sporl F. A circadian clock in HaCaT keratinocytes. Gonzalez-Fandos E. Efficacy of malic acid against Listeria monocytogenes attached to poultry skin during refrigerated storage.
Poultry Sci. Smith W. Comparative effectiveness of alpha-hydroxy acids on skin properties. Gueniche A. Bifidobacterium longum lysate, a new ingredient for reactive skin. Matsumoto M. Antipruritic effects of the probiotic strain LKM in adults with atopic dermatitis.
Allergy Asthma Immunol. Mijouin L. Effects of a skin neuropeptide substance p on cutaneous microflora. Margolis K. Neuropeptides and inflammatory bowel disease.
Biaggini K. Gut Pathog. Middleton J. Sodium lactate as a moisturiser. Lask G. The utilization of nonthermal blue — nm and near infrared — nm light in aesthetic dermatology and surgery—A multicenter study. Laser Ther. Davidson T. Sunscreens, Skin Cancer, and Your Patient. Antoniou C. Photoaging: Prevention and topical treatments. Kurtzweil P. Alpha hydroxy acids for skin care. FDA Consum.
Bernstein E. Glycolic acid treatment increases type I collagen mRNA and hyaluronic acid content of human skin. Ahn K. Beta hydroxy acids are lipid-soluble substances, meaning that they are able to penetrate the skin through sebaceous glands. While alpha hydroxy acids and beta hydroxy acids have some similarities, each has distinct purposes in skincare.
For oily and acne-prone skin types, use a product with salicylic acid, a BHA, to help balance oil and control acne. Search to find a physician near you and enroll to buy through their skinbetter online store. Sign up to receive updates on skin better science , including special offers, new products, and helpful expert skincare information.
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